Brotherly Love

Seizing on the slightest national acknowledgement like seagull on an apple core... Who’s saying nice things about us this month...

Food & Wine gives the thumbs-up to Memphis Taproom in The Neighborhood That Shall Not Be Named. Chef Jesse Kimball represents with kielbasa in their “Best of the Wurst” trend report. One of the things we loved at the Memphis (along with the beer roster) was their Port Richmond platter, a hearty helping of Czerw’s golden pierogi, AC Kissling sauerkraut and some of the best sausage we’ve had.

Dana, Gail & Co. also dig the Fish House Punch at Apothecary—err, APO—naming bottled cocktails as a trend of 2009. Created at the Schuylkill Fishing Company, This magic potion of rum, peach brandy and cognac goes back to the days of our forefathers, 1732 or 1848, depending on which legend you read. In the latter case, word is Shippen Willing created the punch to commemorate women being allowed into the “Fish House” for the first time. The rummy concoction was “something to please the ladies' palate, but get them livelier than is their usual wont.” Enjoy this colonial roofie at APO, where their new Recession Proof elixirs—“$6 worth of bare-naked raw cocktail”—happen every Sunday through Thursday after 7 PM.

Beer Advocate honors our local brewers with top marks for Dogfish Head (#23 All-time Top Breweries on Planet Earth) and their 90 Minute IPA (#9 All-time Top Beers on Planet Earth); Troegs (#14 All-time Top Breweries on Planet Earth); Victory (#3 All-time Top Breweries on Planet Earth) and their Storm King Stout (#15 Top Big-ass Stouts); and Monk’s (#25 Top Beer Bars on Planet Earth).

In their Italian-American-themed January issue, Gourmet goes gaga Philly with an exceptionally well-written feature on Marc Vetri and a story about cheesesteaks that, surprisingly, doesn’t make us cringe.

Photo: GoPhila

Name Game

The Goo Goo Dolls once said famously they won’t tell no one your name. Double negative aside, the lyric seems especially apt after this week’s PW review of Memphis Taproom in […]. We expected contention about the things we said about the food, but not after the use of the Port Fishington moniker. The comment boards blew up a bit with disdain for the Realtor-speak. Said one dissenter: “Do me a favor…stop calling the neighborhood Port Fishington, and better yet, don't come back!” Another: “For a publication that likes to present itself as being in tune with Philly's neighborhoods, you would think you could at least get the neighborhood right, instead of indulging in the urge to rename neighborhoods, which is more the purview of realtors.” Eek. Nebulous are the barriers of the neighborhoods north of Northern Liberties, so much so that someone (if you’re out there, please comment) coined the catchall Port Fishington for Port Richmond, Fishtown, and Kensington. The locals seemed miffed about the portmanteau, but it’s right there on Memphis Taproom’s website (see above). It’s also in the name of the vegan cookie company they buy from. Living in a hip zip comes at a price, so get a hold of yourselves, residents of […]. At least you’re not G-Ho.

Photo: Memphis Taproom