It shouldn’t even be legal to call the frullati blended up at matchbox-sized Queen Village chocolateria La Golosa by their American name, milkshakes. Golosa owner/chocolate aficionado Fabio Scarpelli’s frullati are thick and rich, but also possess an unusual, ethereal frothiness—check out all those bubbles—that makes them endlessly drinkable (though a translucent pastel bendy straw, naturally). The ergonomic glass resembles a very stylish beaker, like a collabo between Michael Graves and Dr. Bunsen Honeydew, but what’s inside is more noteworthy: a frappe of milk and chocolate (56% or 70% cacao) enhanced with spices or fruit. The menu offers bananas or strawberries, but when we asked for the latter, Scarpelli shook his head. “I’m not finding great strawberries yet, so we only have the bananas.” How perfectly Italian a response. Instead, Scarpelli boosted our frullato with clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and chili. Each sip bloomed with aromatic spices and swelled to a tingly crescendo. Drink it now.