5.17.2009

Lunch With The Pabbit

It was one of those perfect late-spring Philadelphia afternoons at Pub & Kitchen. Sun streamed through the peek-a-boo shutters opened along the 20th Street facade, washing the long, narrow saloon in honey light. A solo customer with a Windsor burger. A vase of lilies swaying in the cool zephyrs. Barbacks moving boxes, bringing up lemons and fronds of fresh mint so big it was like they were welcoming the bartender to Jerusalem. It was quiet, serene, a way we’re not used to seeing the often jubilant, occasionally rowdy P&K. For some, pure relaxation transpires during yoga retreats and wilderness hikes. For us, these crystallized moments occur at off-peak hours at bars we love.



With a lip-puckering gin rickey, condensation inching closer to the bev-nap as IbaƱez inched closer to second, we were damn pleased with life. Like we said, a perfect afternoon—one enhanced by Johnny Mac’s lunch menu that premiered last month. The spring salad embodied the color green, a generous tuft of peppery arugula, fragrant mint, sweet peas and crisp cucumbers tossed in a light, lemony dressing. For people who say cocktails don’t pair with food, we challenge them to bite this salad with P&K’s rickey, tarted up with lime juice hand-squeezed in an old-school citrus press. Honey-whisky wings followed. Pretty sure they’re available on the dinner menu as well, but before the other day we’d yet to bask in their glory. The goodness isn’t necessarily in the wings and drumsticks (perfectly cooked but kinda puny), but in the sauce: sticky and sweet, with an unapologetically boozy finish. It’s how your alcoholic uncle would make honey-whisky sauce. Service, as usual, was easygoing and genuine. The Phils went on to lose, but we were so sated we hardly noticed. Lunch served Thursdays and Fridays only.

Photo: blogalicious

5.14.2009

Drink Me: Frullato

It shouldn’t even be legal to call the frullati blended up at matchbox-sized Queen Village chocolateria La Golosa by their American name, milkshakes. Golosa owner/chocolate aficionado Fabio Scarpelli’s frullati are thick and rich, but also possess an unusual, ethereal frothiness—check out all those bubbles—that makes them endlessly drinkable (though a translucent pastel bendy straw, naturally). The ergonomic glass resembles a very stylish beaker, like a collabo between Michael Graves and Dr. Bunsen Honeydew, but what’s inside is more noteworthy: a frappe of milk and chocolate (56% or 70% cacao) enhanced with spices or fruit. The menu offers bananas or strawberries, but when we asked for the latter, Scarpelli shook his head. “I’m not finding great strawberries yet, so we only have the bananas.” How perfectly Italian a response. Instead, Scarpelli boosted our frullato with clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and chili. Each sip bloomed with aromatic spices and swelled to a tingly crescendo. Drink it now.

Photo: blogalicious

5.08.2009

Restaurant Paparazzi: Verde


After dinner at sushi newbie Aki (see the PW review in two weeks), blogalicious hit Capogiro as we often do for a second dessert: orange-cardamom sorbetto and chocolate malt gelato on a slender, brittle, waffle-ironed cone. Across the street, Lolita was jumping, and we could help but notice Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s fifth concept, the just-reported flower/chocolate shop Verde (it means 'green' in Spanish and Italian), looks like it’s nearly ready to spring. Not much to add to initial reports, except that we dig the logo and that the cacao side of the biz is named Marcie Blaine Artisanal Chocolates. Space looks sweet.





Photo: blogalicious