Kisso and Tell

There's sushi, and then there's Kisso's sushi, ridonkulously delicious and so fresh you can still smell the sea. They're open for lunch, which we love, and have withstood the test of Asian fusion, which we really love. After all these years, the serene sanctuary on the fringe of Old City at 4th & Race still feels like a secret, special place. Novices can play it safe with Cali rolls and spicy tuna, but Kisso is a playground for those who like their sushi with a side of mystery. I don't speak Japanese, and asking me the translation of the wasabi tobiko- and egg yolk-crowned nigiri (pictured) would be like asking Daisuke Matsuzaka to explain the finer points of the Collective Bargaining Agreement. I can, however, tell you with confidence that the snowy fish is immaculately fresh, its buttery stripes pulling away like a licorice strip from a Twizzler Pull -N- Peel. The yolk makes a mess but imparts a sublime richness that seems counterintuitive to sushi sensibility, but nonetheless works. Wrapped around a squat ottoman of rice a luxurious curtain of smoked salmon gets the Russian treatment with fat orbs of ruby roe (pictured). Both pieces of sushi come on the Mix Match Sushi Platter Kisso Style, a total of eight pieces for under $20. If you get inspired (or are cash-strapped), check out my article in the Courier-Post on making maki at home, which is easier than you think.