Big O

Though you'd never know it from the weather--we spoke too soon the other day about the Flyers winning a game before the next snowfall--summer is right around the rock salt-covered corner. And summer makes us think fish. Raw or on the grill, Ariel's buddies just taste better with the sun on your face and a Corona in your hand. Hit Onasis Estiatorian in Cherry Hill for a premature taste of Memorial Day. On a review of the airy Med-chic villa for the Courier-Post, the seafood was so fresh and succulent, we could almost smell the salty ocean air. Fish are priced by the pound and grilled whole over applewood that imparts a sweet smoke balanced simply by bright lemon, capers, and herbs.

Photo: Onasis