First Food & Wine, then Frank Bruni, now Gourmet. The national food media all want to get in our pants this summer. Though we'll admit we get the butterflies when we stumble across Philly coverage in the big-boys, our moms taught us better than to put out on the first date. No one's buying the cow when the fior di latte gelato's for free. Gourmet's June grilling issue includes sounds bites from Water Works proprietor Michael Karloutsos and a nod to Xochitl chef Dionicio Jimenez, whose "festive foods...pulsate with pleasure." The editors relate Jimenez's story in a sentence: "No wonder Marc Vetri wouldn't let him continue to wash dishes once he'd tasted his cooking." Nice. Obligatory cheap feels for Osteria follow. Apparently, it's great there, or something, if you hadn't heard.